Unsanforized VS Sanforized. And why does it matter?
Denim comes in two types: Sanforized, and that which has not (or “Unsanforized denim”). Unsanforized is rough raw denim that will shrink a few inches when it is first soaked, hence some aptly-named "Shrink-To-Fit" denim. Sanforized denim shrinks is generally considered to be “pre-shrunk”, and therefore does not need to be sized up or down accordingly.
Then the problem you will face after buying an unsanforized pair is seeing its legs twisted after you give it a soak. And you might not get creases as deep as those on sanforized since those that has sanforized mostly come having coated on. So if you want more refine deeper creases, just steer to sanforized one. Leave unsanforized denim for vintage creases followers.
More for unsanforized jeans you might haven’t know.
1. It is highly recommended you soak before your first wear making the pair shrink to the most. Or else you will find it shrink more that you could not wear if you give it the first soak after a one year worn.
2. Buy two or three size up and three inches more than the actual length you want, depends on brand.
3. Most of unsanforized denim are bound to get leg-twisted. Left-hand twill twists to the front. Right-hand twill denim twists to the back.
4. If you don’t know if it’s sanforized or not, don’t predict. Just ask the shop. Don’t risk. There is hugh difference between 3% and 10% shrinkage, trust us.
5. Most of the pair with 34” or 36” length are unsanforized such as Evisu’s, Samurai’s. Well, there is an exception. Some brands like A.P.C.’s and Dior’s also make unsanforized denim for the pair with 36 inches long.